Chapter XIX: Social Intercourse With Japanese Officials—Visit To Niigata, Sado Gold Mines, And Nanao¶

1Our relations with government officials suddenly from this time onward assumed a character of cordiality which formerly would have been thought impossible. 2This was, of course, in consequence of very explicit instructions given by the Tycoon to his ministers to cultivate the friendship of the foreign missions, and especially of the British Legation, in order doubtless to counteract the intimate intercourse which was known to be carried on between ourselves and the retainers of Satsuma and Chôshiû. 3Each of the commissioners for foreign affairs in turn invited me to dine with him in Japanese fashion, and as I was extremely ignorant of Japanese etiquette, Noguchi used to accompany me on these occasions to be my tutor. 4An exchange of presents was always an important part of the entertainment, and this was a very troublesome business on account of the difficulty of buying anything at the foreign stores in Yokohama that was worth giving away as a specimen of English productions. 5Most of these officials lived in a very modest way. 6The rooms in which they gave their entertainments were usually upstairs, perhaps not more than twelve feet by fifteen, but as there was no furniture, there was plenty of space. 7On arriving at the house we were shown up a very narrow staircase, and through an equally narrow door. 8Down we plumped on our knees immediately, and bowed our heads to the mats to the host, who did the same. 9Then ensued a contest of politeness, our entertainer trying to get us nearer to the top of the room, and we protesting that we were very comfortable where we were. 10Of course it ended in my being put down in front of the recess (tokonoma), which is the seat of honour, while Noguchi remained where he was, just inside the door. 11Usually I was then allowed to cross my legs in tailor fashion, owing to my joints not having yet acquired the lissomness of the Japanese. 12Then Noguchi with great solemnity unwrapping the present, would slide 22913 across the floor and deposit it between the host and myself. 14In Japan you don't use brown paper for parcels, but every household possesses a set of cloths of different sizes, silk or crape for the smaller, of cotton dyed green for the larger, which fulfil the same purpose as paper. 15Then I pushed the present gently towards my entertainer, saying "This is really a very shabby article, but as it is a production of my contemptible country, I ... 16To which he would reply, "Really I am quite overpowered. 17What a magnificent article. 18I am really ashamed to deprive you of it. 19And then all women folk, the servants, and the children who were peeping in at the door or round the corner of the balcony which ran along the front of the room would crane out their necks to get a glimpse of the precious rarity from the far west. 20Then the other guests, three or four in number, would begin to arrive. 21If they were strangers, the following dialogue would take place. 22Each person putting his hands together on the mat in front would bend over and almost touching them with his forehead, say "I have the honour to present myself to you for the first time. 23My name is so-and-so. 24I hope to enjoy your friendship in perpetuity. 25To which either may add that he has often heard of the great fame of the other, and longed for an opportunity of meeting him.

26When these bowings and prostrations are over, a small apparatus for smoking is brought in and placed before the guest, after which tea and sweetmeats are served. 27Perhaps an hour passes in this way, for the entertainment is provided from a restaurant, as the domestic who performs the office of cook in a household only knows how to boil rice and make commonplace stews; and in those days at least neither clocks nor punctuality were common. 28If you were invited for two o'clock, you went most often at one or three, or perhaps later. 29In fact, as the Japanese hour altered in length every fortnight, it was very difficult to be certain about the time of day, except at sunrise, noon, sunset and midnight. 30At last you began to hear a gentle clatter of dishes below stairs; the teacups, cakes and sweetmeats were removed, and a covered lacquered basin was set before you on a square tray, with a pair of chopsticks, the ends of which were neatly wrapped in paper. 31At the same time a girl put a basin half full of water down on the middle of the floor, with a small pile of diminutive flat cups by the side. 32Your host took one of these, held 2301 it out for a little of the hot saké, which is poured from a slender porcelain bottle, and having drunk it, slid forward to the basin to wash it. 2Having well shaken it, he crawled to where you were sitting, bowed profoundly, and presented the cup to you on his crossed palms. 3You bowed, and taking the cup between your own two hands deposited it on the floor, after which you were bound at once to present it to the damsel to be filled for yourself.

4If your host, or one of the guests who has offered you the cup, wished to be very polite indeed, he waited before you with his hands resting on the floor in front of him while you emptied the cup, or at least took a good sip. 5When this ceremony had been gone through with all the guests, your host lifted the cover off his soup-basin, and invited you at the same time to follow his example. 6You drank a little of the soup, just dipped the end of the chopsticks into it by way of pretending to touch the meat, and laid down the bowl again; usually you replaced the cover. 7A number of dishes were brought in piled up with fish-cake, white beans boiled with sugar, raw, broiled and boiled fish, perhaps some boiled fowl or roast wild duck, cut up in small pieces, and these were served on small plates or saucers, and each person received a bowl containing a sort of pudding made of eggs, loach and the large seeds of the maidenhair tree. 8The raw fish, which was usually either bonito or sole, was sliced up very thin, and eaten with soy, raw laver (seaweed) and grated wasabi, which is the root of a plant belonging to the same order as the horse-radish, and resembling it in taste.

9Towards the end of the feast a second water souché was brought in, and perhaps some broiled eels. 10The courses were not removed as each succeeding one was brought in, and the plates collected on your tray and the floor close by you till all the extent of the feast was exhibited. 11You ate very little, picking here a mouthful, there a mouthful, but you drank as much saké as you could stand, and sometimes more. 12After two or three hours of conversation, perhaps enlivened by some music and singing performed by professionals hired for the occasion, and you felt that you had had enough liquor you bowed to your host, and said that you would like some rice. 13This was the well-understood signal. 14A fresh tray was brought in with a large lacquered bowl for rice, and a couple more containing soups, accompanied almost invariably by the fish of ceremony called sea-bream, and the bigger it 2311 was the greater the honour. 2You had your bowl filled with rice, of which you were, however, not able to eat much, as your appetite had been nearly destroyed by the repeated libations of warm saké, so after a few mouthfuls you handed the bowl to the maid, who filled it half full of very weak tea, or on very formal occasions with hot water, and thus you managed to swallow the contents, aided by a piece of salted radish or vegetable marrow pickled in the lees of saké. 3That over, you carefully replaced the covers on their respective bowls, pushed the tray a foot or two away from you, and executed a bow of profound gratitude to your entertainer. 4The feast was then removed downstairs, where all the portable parts of it were packed into a box of white wood-shavings and delivered to your servant, if you had one in your train, to carry home. 5Freshly infused tea was brought in, after which you thanked your host for the feast, and took your leave, being accompanied to the door of the house by the whole family, to whom you made as low a bow as possible before mounting your pony or entering your palanquin.

10Sir Harry, as I have said before, had already visited Tsuruga, which was suggested as a possible alternative to Niigata as the port to be opened on the west coast, but before deciding this question, it was necessary to make a careful examination of Niigata itself. 11So in the latter part of July he started off on a voyage of inspection, taking Mitford and myself with him. 12I had Ono Seigorô, one of the legation writers, and my trusty Noguchi with me. 13We left Yokohama on the 23^rd July in the "Basilisk," commanded by Captain, 2321 afterwards Sir William, Hewett, V.C. In less than four days we reached Hakodaté, where the usual visits were exchanged with the governor, a little dark-faced man named Koidé Yamato no Kami. 2A good deal was said about the coal mine at Iwanai on the west coast of Yezo, at which a commencement of working had recently been made under the superintendence of my friend Erasmus Gower. 3Admiral Keppel was already here in the yacht "Salamis," and on the 1^st August we left again for Niigata, arriving there after a prosperous voyage of thirty-six hours.

13After we had waited for a few minutes the governor came in; he proved to be Shiraishi Shimôsa no Kami, an old acquaintance of mine when he held a similar post at Yokohama in 1864 and 1865. 14In those days we used often to have serious disputes about the claims of British subjects against defaulting Japanese merchants and questions of customs' duties, but I found him now in quite a different mood. 15He was very polite and cheery, and alluded with regret to the ridiculous arguments which in former days under a different régime he had been obliged to maintain against me. 16Now that the foreign ministers had visited the Tycoon at Ozaka all was to be changed, and our intercourse was to be really friendly. 17He had himself received from Kiôto a copy of instructions to that effect. 18After some further talk about the possibility of Niigata being made an open port, I arranged for him to call on Sir Harry on the following morning on 2331 board the "Basilisk," bringing all the maps in his possession, and took my leave.

10Old Shiraishi renewed acquaintance with me some twelve years later at Tôkiô, and used to give me lessons in the interpretation of the utai plays; his son became my librarian, and died in my house.

11After a two hours' talk we started off to inspect an island in the river which it was proposed should be converted to the uses of a foreign settlement. 12Sir Harry, who was of an active inquisitive temperament, here signalized himself in the eyes of the natives by scrambling up to the top of a large shed, under which a junk was in course of construction, to get a view of the surrounding country, much to the horror of Mitford and myself, who were so orientalized by this time in our notions that we longed to see our chief conduct himself with the impassive dignity of a Japanese gentleman. 13This exploit being over, he dragged us all, including Hewett, about the town till half-past six, not to the improvement of the tempers of that gallant officer or of his boat's crew, who thus lost their dinner. 14I remained behind with Noguchi, dined again 2341 in Japanese fashion, and spent the night on shore, in the enjoyment of a few hours' perfect freedom. 2In fact, I did not return to the ship till the following afternoon, and then had some difficulty in getting off, as there was a heavy swell on the bar, though outside there was neither wind nor rough sea.

6A letter had been sent off from Niigata on the previous day to announce the visit of the British Minister, and as soon as we let go our anchor some of the local officials came off to call. 7The mines however lay at Aikawa on the other side of the island, where the governor resided. 8He had sent over his own kago for Sir Harry to perform the journey in, but the chief did not relish either the idea of locomotion after this fashion, nor yet of walking across the island and of passing the night on the floor of a Japanese house in native quilts, and with nothing better than rice and fish to eat. 9So he decided to send me across in his stead, and proceeded round to Aikawa in the "Basilisk. 10This arrangement suited me down to the ground. 11It was much jollier to travel by one's self than to play second fiddle to one's chief always. 12The distance was about sixteen miles to Aikawa, and the officials made me extremely comfortable for the night.

13Next day Sir Harry and a large party, including some of the officers of the "Serpent," Commander Bullock and W. G. Aston our interpreter, landed at Sawané, where I went to meet them, and we walked over the hills to the village near the mines, where I had put up. 14On his arrival at the house where I had lodged, which in fact had been prepared for his reception, one of those scenes occurred which were not infrequent in those days, when the Japanese tried to treat foreigners with indignity, and it became necessary to resent their impertinence. 15At the door he was met by one of two vice-governors, who ushered him into a side room, where the idea was that he should do "ante-chamber" till the governor deigned to receive him. 16But Sir Harry was equal 2351 to the occasion, and promptly turning round without saying a word, walked out of the house. 2I overtook him at the gate, and having found out what was the matter, was on my way back to tell the alarmed officials that the governor must receive the British Minister at the door of the house, when I met the two vice-governors hurrying after us with some ridiculous excuse. 3So we turned back, walking with immense dignity so as to give him time, and by the time we arrived back again the old fellow made his appearance beaming with smiles, as if nothing had happened. 4He was at once forgiven, and led the way into a large room where a long row of chairs extended down one side for ourselves, faced by three others for himself and the vice-governors.

5We speedily became great friends and drank a quantity of saké together, Sir Harry and the governor vying with each other in the manufacture of the most high-flown compliments. 6After this the whole party adjourned to visit the gold mines, which were then, whatever they may be now, low-roofed burrows half full of water, and those who ventured in returned to the outer air again looking more like half-drowned rabbits than human Englishmen. 7I had never been able to see much pleasure in this sort of subterranean excursion, and carefully stayed outside. 8We got on board that night, and weighed anchor in order to proceed to Nanao in Noto. 9There a fine harbour was said to exist, which we thought could perhaps be substituted for Niigata.

10Early on the morning of the 7^th August we came in sight of the lofty mountains of Etchiû, which centre round the volcanic peak of Tatéyama, nearly 10,000 feet high, and at eleven o'clock reached the southern entrance of the harbour, which is formed by a considerable island lying opposite to a bay. 11The "Serpent" led the way, in discharge of the functions appertaining to her as a surveying ship, but we had to take great care on account of the numerous patches of shoal water, and did not come to an anchor in front of the town till half-past twelve. 12Nanao, or Tokoro no kuchi, at that time containing from 8000 to 9000 inhabitants, was rising into importance as a port for the few steamers belonging to the daimiô of Kaga, and was administered by a machi bugiô or prefect named Abé Junjirô. 13He was a young man who had been to Nagasaki and knew a little English, both of which facts in those days gave him a title to be considered travelled and learned, but he had no authority to speak on behalf of his 2361 prince. 2We therefore waited until the arrival of some more representative officials named Sano and Satomi, who were expected from Kanazawa, the capital of this daimiate. 3They turned up on board the "Basilisk" on the 9^th August, and sat talking, or rather being talked to, by Sir Harry for five mortal hours. 4The chief topic was the question of the suitability of Nanao as a substitute for Niigata. 5What the Kaga people feared was that this would lead to its being taken away from them by the Tycoon's government, as in former times had happened in the case of Nagasaki and Niigata. 6But they did not venture to state this openly, and alleged therefore various other excuses, such as that the inhabitants were not accustomed to see foreigners, that the majority would object on account of the general rise in prices which would follow on the exportation of produce, and the daimiô, however willing to see the place opened to foreign trade, must of course act in harmony with the wishes of the people.

7Sir Harry then gave up pressing the point directly, enlarged on the inconveniences of the anchorage at Niigata, the need of a port of refuge, and the "fact" that none existed nearer than Nanao. 8He said nothing of our having inspected Ebisu Minato in Sado with the view of using it as an alternative anchorage to Niigata. 9Would the daimiô object to foreign vessels anchoring at Nanao when the weather was bad at the bar of Niigata. 10The reply was that for the sake of humanity and of our friendly relations he would be unable to refuse this. 11Well then, as ships could not afford to lie a long time at Nanao doing nothing, would there be any objection to their cargoes being landed and stored till they could be transported to Niigata. 12No, probably not, in the interests of humanity. 13Who then, asked Sir Harry, should undertake the construction of the necessary warehouses? 14The reply was that either foreigners or the Kaga administration could do this as seemed most convenient. 15Well then, supposing that the people of Nanao should wish to buy any of the goods so stored by foreigners, would it not be a hard thing to prevent the sale? 16They said perhaps it might be, but to give such permission would lead to converting Nanao into a foreign trading port; nevertheless, if all the articles required were ordered beforehand, and not selected from those stored with a view to their transportation to Niigata, there could be no objection. 17But in actual fact, to speak frankly, they thought they could undertake the regulation of the port and the 2371 storage of goods without the assistance of the Tycoon's government. 2The territory of Nanao had belonged to the Maeda clan from very early times; it was the only good port in the three provinces of Kaga, Etchiû and Noto, and could ill be spared. 3They would dislike to share the local administration with the government, nor could they give it up to them altogether.

4Sir Harry expressed his concurrence in these views, and then proceeded to talk about the means of transport for himself and his party overland to Ozaka. 5This subject had been discussed in the legation before our departure from Yedo, though when the governor of Niigata had asked Sir Harry whether it was not his intention to return by land from Nanao, our very diplomatic chief had replied that such an idea had never entered his head. 6They received his suggestion with no marks of cordiality, and drew on themselves a severe rebuke for their want of friendship towards foreigners, so different to the feelings displayed by certain other clans. 7This plain speaking completely spoiled their temper. 8They became very sulky and silent, and alleging hunger, probably with much truth, took their departure.

9As soon as they had left the ship Sir Harry made up his mind to send Mitford and myself overland to Ozaka, while he went round by way of Nagasaki in the "Basilisk. 10It was, of course, evident that we could travel through the country in a much less formal style than would be necessary for him, and on our part of course we were only too delighted to get the opportunity of seeing a part of the interior where foreigners had never been before. 11I was therefore sent on shore to get hold of the prefect. 12Bullock was ordered to remain behind with the "Serpent" to make a complete survey of the bay. 13The Admiral, who had arrived from Niigata the day before us, got up steam in the "Salamis," and was off at half-past three, the "Basilisk" following a couple of hours later.

17We proceeded to a house where I had more than once 2381 passed the night, and shortly received a visit from Sano and Abé, who were to make all the arrangements for our journey. 2Thither came also two officials of the Yedo Foreign Department, who had come from Yokohama with Sir Harry, and whom he had left behind with injunctions to facilitate the survey of the harbour by Bullock. 3But as soon as they heard that we were going overland, they conceived the plan of offering that one of them should accompany us, to spy upon our movements. 4They alleged that although everything might go well with us in the territories of the daimiô of Kaga, we should meet with difficulties further on. 5We should be unable to procure baggage and palanquin coolies; we might be attacked and killed. 6They had instructions in fact to accompany us wherever we went on shore, and that it was a law of Japan that foreigners must not travel without foreign department officials to look after them. 7To this I replied with equal weight that they were bound to respect the injunctions laid on them by Sir Harry, to whom they had been lent by the Tycoon's Council. 8He had told them to remain at Nanao for a specific purpose, while we had positive orders from our chief not to take them. 9We felt assured that the daimiôs of Kaga and Echizen, which was the territory that lay immediately beyond, would do everything to smooth our way; and as regarded the rest of the line of road, they might write to the Tycoon's people at Kiôto to send down the necessary instructions, and even take on themselves the responsibility of transmitting the orders direct to the authorities of the towns we should have to pass through.

10As for the law they mentioned, I felt convinced that it had no existence. 11At best there was only a custom to that effect, which we could decline to abide by at our option. 12These considerations proved to them that argument would not help them, so they tried to work upon my feelings by representing that they would get into hot water with their superiors in Yedo if they suffered us to depart alone. 13But this also failed. 14Finally they washed their hands of the business, and begged to be excused from all responsibility for any difficulties we might encounter. 15This request was most readily granted, and they retired with a secret intention of getting Bullock to dispense with their services, while we betook ourselves to our beds with the consciousness of a victory achieved.