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Chapter X: Shimonoseki—Naval Operations

1To my great satisfaction I was appointed interpreter to Admiral Küper, and, packing up a few necessaries, embarked on board the "Euryalus. 2I was messed in the ward room, and as there was no cabin available, slept on a sofa. 3The officers were a very pleasant set of fellows; among them I especially remember Tracey and Maclear, both of them now post-captains. 4The former is a very distinguished officer, but what particularly attracted me towards him was his love of books, and his wide knowledge of modern languages, acquired by dint of sheer perseverance amid all the noisy distractions of life on board ship.

5The "Coquette" was sent off to Nagasaki to bring up Sir Rutherford's stepson, Fred. 6Lowder, to be additional interpreter. 7The only other civilian on board the flagship was Felix Beato, the well-known photographer, who, making his first start in life with a camera in the Crimean war, had also accompanied the Anglo-French expedition to North China in 1859, and had subsequently settled in Japan, where his social qualities had gained him many friends. 8My teacher Nakazawa had been secretly taken away from me by the Tycoon's government as a punishment for having accompanied me on the visit to Himéshima; many years afterwards I was made acquainted with the treachery of the foreigner who had denounced him to the Commissioners for Foreign Affairs. 9But Willis lent me his Japanese instructor and pupil in medicine, Hayashi Bokuan, and I was able to make shift with this faithful man, though as a scholar he was greatly inferior to Nakazawa.

10The English squadron consisted of the flagship "Euryalus," 35, commanded by Captain Alexander; the corvettes "Tartar," 21, Captain Hayes; "Barrosa," 21, Captain W. M. Dowell; the two-decker "Conqueror," 48, Captain Luard; the paddle-sloop "Leopard," 18, Captain Leckie; the paddle-sloop "Argus," 6, Commander Moresby; the "Coquette," 10311 14, Commander Roe; and gunboat "Bouncer," 2, Lieutenant Holder. 12The French frigate "Sémiramis," 35, bearing the broad pennon of Admiral Jaurés, and the American chartered steamer "Takiang," carrying a Parrot gun and its crew from the United States corvette "Jamestown," under the command of Lieutenant Pearson, accompanied us. 13The French corvette "Dupleix," 10, and despatch boat "Tancrède," 4, with the Dutch corvettes "Metalen Kruis," 16, Captain de Man; "Djambi," 16, Captain van Rees; "Amsterdam," 8; and "Medusa," 16, Captain de Casembroot, left the bay of Kanagawa on the 28th August, and the remainder of the ships on the following day. 14We had calm weather and a smooth sea on the way down, sighting the south-west corner of Shikoku on the 1st September. 15About 5 p.m. we fell in with the "Perseus," 17, Commander Kingston, towing a collier, and bringing the Admiral's mail. 16The "Perseus" had met Commander Buckle in the "Cormorant" on his way to Shanghai for the mail, who, having started from Yokohama about the time of the return of the Japanese embassy, reported that the expedition was indefinitely postponed; she had therefore cast off the collier and steamed away at full speed for Yokohama, but falling a little later in with the "Coquette" on her way to Nagasaki, learnt a very different tale, and turning round, had picked up the collier again and brought her on. 17On the following day we reached Himéshima and anchored a little after noon; here we found the "Djambi" and "Metalen Kruis. 18Shortly afterwards the "Medusa" and the three French ships appeared, and by midnight every ship of the allied squadron had arrived. 19We had still to wait for the "Coquette," and either the "Cormorant" or "Osprey."

20In the afternoon the Admiral, Captain Alexander, with other officers, went ashore for a walk, and I acted as their guide. 21The poor village mayor made his appearance in a great state of alarm. 22He was indeed in an uncomfortable position, uncertain of the disposition of the strangers, and sure of punishment from his own countrymen if he manifested too great friendliness towards us. 23He promised, however, to send us off some fish, "quite privately," but was positive that he could sell no bullocks. 24He had despatched a messenger to Kitsuki to inquire whether the islanders might hold intercourse with the squadron and furnish us with what supplies they had.

1041 During the night we took in 150 tons of coal, and the 3rd of September was spent by the rest of our squadron in replenishing their bunkers. 2In the afternoon I went ashore to the mayor's house, where I found three of the garrison from Kitsuki. 3They were very reticent, not to say sulky, and only one of them, who was evidently afraid of his companions, could be induced to open his mouth. 4It was a grand sight to see the master of the collier and his wife parading along the beach with a couple of dirty little village urchins running ahead of them. 5The common people were friendly enough, except when the eyes of the two-sworded men were upon them.

6On the 4th September we weighed anchor at nine o'clock and proceeded towards the straits of Shimonoséki, the eight British ships in the centre, with "Euryalus" leading, the French squadron and the "Takiang" in a line on the left, and the four Dutch vessels on the right. 7It was a beautiful show as the allied squadrons steamed in the consciousness of irresistible strength calmly across the unruffled surface of this inland sea, which lay before us like a glassy mirror in its framework of blue hills. 8Towards half past three we anchored at a distance of about two miles from the mouth of the straits, and prepared for action. 9Everything was in readiness by the time we had got half-way through our dinner, but to the disappointment of the more eager spirits, we remained where we were without firing a shot. 10Every one was naturally very anxious that no new complication should arise to delay the longed-for encounter with the enemy. 11Early on the following morning two Chôshiû men, common soldiers, came on board to inquire why all these men-of-war had come to the straits, but the Admiral refused to hold any parley with men of evidently inferior rank, and they were told to return on shore at once. 12One of them told me very innocently that if we intended to go through he must go on shore to make preparations for us, and when I asked what preparation, he said "for fighting."

13I was then sent in a boat to overhaul a couple of junks that in the meanwhile had been stopped as they were entering the straits. 14One was the "Isé Maru," of Matsuyama in Iyo, going to load coals at Hirado, the other belonged to Kurumé in Chikugo, and was returning from Ozaka with a miscellaneous cargo. 15As they did not belong to the enemy we let them go.

16About two p.m. the two men who had previously visited 1051 the ship came on board again to announce the arrival of a bugiô or commissioner of some sort, accompanied by Inouyé Bunda (he had now laid aside his alias of Shiji). 2But signals had already been made to the captains to take up the positions allotted to them for shelling the batteries, and when my friend Inouyé and his companion reached the flagship the only answer they received to their request that hostilities might be deferred with a view to negotiation was that the time for a peaceable arrangement had passed.

3We went into action at ten minutes past four. 4The "Barrosa," "Tartar," "Djambi," "Metalen Kruis," "Leopard," and "Dupleix" moved along the southern coast of the funnel-shaped entrance to the strait, and took up their station in front of Tanoura, as shown in the annexed plan, while a light squadron consisting of the "Perseus," "Medusa," "Tancrède," "Coquette," and "Bouncer" passed along the northern shore, the "Amsterdam" and "Argus" being held in reserve. 5The "Euryalus," "Sémiramis," "Conqueror," and "Takiang" anchored out of range of the enemy's batteries, at a distance of about 2500 yards from the central cluster at Maeda mura, and consequently near enough to reach them with our 110-pounder breech-loading Armstrong gun on the forecastle. 6The first shot was fired from the "Euryalus," and the whole of the Tanoura squadron then followed her example. 7The light squadron speedily silenced the three-gun battery on Kushi Saki Point, but not before it had managed to pitch a shot pretty near the British flagship. 8Then the "Sémiramis," which had been occupied in getting springs on her cable, opened fire from her quarter-deck guns with terrible effect, scarcely a shot falling short. 9The "Takiang" did her best with her single gun, and the "Conqueror" fired three shells, one of which burst beautifully among the great cluster of batteries. 10The "Euryalus" fired only sixteen rounds between 4.10 and 5.10 p.m. from her 110-pounder, which was pretty good work, considering that the vent piece got jammed once and a considerable time was lost in digging it out with handspikes. 11Another time the vent piece was blown up into the fore-top owing to its not having been screwed in tightly enough. 12The six vessels anchored south were soon engaged in a sharp conflict with the batteries opposite, while the light squadron, having silenced the batteries on the north, came to their aid, enfilading the 4, 7, and 9-gun batteries. 13The furthest shot 1081 fired from the "Euryalus" was at 4800 yards, and it went plump into a battery.

2By 5.10 the principal batteries had been silenced, and a signal was made to discontinue firing. 3A fire now burst out among the buildings in the Maeda mura batteries and a magazine exploded, making the third "blow-up" during the afternoon. 4We continued firing a shot now and then up to six o'clock. 5The quarter-deck 40-pounder Armstrongs were fired once only, as their range proved to be too short, and none of the smooth-bore guns on the main deck were brought into action, to the great disappointment of the bluejackets, who had probably not forgotten the slaughter made amongst their comrades at Kagoshima, and burned to avenge it. 6It must be admitted that the Japanese fought well and with great persistence, for I attach no value to the story that was told that the gunners were only allowed to fire once, and were then replaced by fresh men. 7At first many of our shot fell short, but when the range was found, they struck the batteries every moment, as we could see by the clouds of dust that were knocked up. 8After the signal to discontinue firing had been made, Kingston of the "Perseus" and De Casembroot of the "Medusa" landed and spiked fourteen guns in the Maeda mura batteries. 9At the small battery on Kushi Saki Point two out of the three guns had been dismounted by our fire. 10The entire casualties on our side this first day were six men wounded in the "Tartar," which bore the brunt of the fire.

11Early on the following morning one of the Maeda mura batteries re-opened fire on the squadron anchored off Tanoura, but was replied to with such effect that it was speedily silenced, and the barrack behind was set on fire. 12The "Dupleix" lost two killed and two wounded, while the first lieutenant of the "Tartar" was struck by a round shot on the posteriors and severely wounded. 13He recovered, however, contrary to the expectations of the surgeons. 14I slept through the noise, but was woke by somebody with a message that I had to land with Captain Alexander, who was to command the small-arms party of the "Euryalus," 200 strong. 15From the "Conqueror" there landed the battalion of 450 marines under Colonel Suther, besides her own complement of 100, and some bluejackets, small detachments of marines being added from the other ships of our squadron. 16The French landed 350, and the Dutch 200. 1091 Another calculation showed that 1900 men were put ashore, of whom we furnished 1400.

2We rowed straight for the nearest land, followed by a string of cutters and pinnaces so full of men that there was only just room to work the oars, and got on shore at nine o'clock exactly. 3The task assigned to Captain Alexander's party was to scale a bluff immediately to the east of the Maeda mura batteries, and take a one-gun battery. 4It was a stiff pull up the steep grassy hill, but up went the bluejackets pell-mell, as if they were out on a picnic, every man for himself. 5On climbing over the earthwork we found that the gun had been either carried off or concealed. 6There were a score or so of the enemy on the platform, who retreated as soon as the first of our people showed his nose above the parapet, but they kept up a dropping fire from the other side of the hill. 7Here one of our men received a bullet wound in the leg, and a second was accidentally shot through the body by the sailor immediately behind him. 8Passing through the battery, we clambered up the hill behind, through a tangled brake of ferns and creepers. 9The heat was intense. 10It was a difficult job to keep one's footing on the narrow path cut through the slippery grass. 11Our bluejackets were very eager to get at the enemy, but not a single one was to be seen. 12Descending the other side of the hill, we at last found ourselves in a sort of covered way, which ran along the side of a narrow valley. 13It was reported that the enemy were posted further up the valley in considerable numbers, but instead of pursuing them we turned to the left along the covered way, which brought us down past a magazine into the central battery of the principal group. 14It turned out afterwards to be a fortunate counter-march, for if we had proceeded in the other direction we should have stumbled on a stockade defended by three field guns, which would have played "Old Harry" with our small force.

15The first battery we entered was already in the possession of the French landing party and some of our marines, who, having disembarked below the bluff, had marched along the beach, meeting with no opposition. 16This work was of earth, having a parapet about twenty feet wide, armed along the edge with a chevaux-de-frise of pointed bamboo stakes. 17In battery No. 7 the guns were mounted en barbette, on carriages with enormous wheels, and worked on pivots. 18They were of bronze, very long, and threw a 32-pound shot, 1101 though marked as 24's. 2They bore a Japanese date corresponding to 1854, and had evidently been cast in Yedo. 3Besides these, there was a short 32-pounder, and on the other side of a traverse, containing a small magazine, was a single 10-inch gun, also of bronze. 4We upset them all, broke up the carriages, threw the shot and shell into the sea, burned the powder, and even dragged a couple of guns down on to the beach. 5This occupied us till three or four o'clock in the afternoon. 6During this time our men were perpetually firing musketry at the enemy on the hill, who every now and then showed themselves to give us a shot or two. 7In the 9-gun battery were a couple of heavy 11-inch bronze guns. 8Afterwards we proceeded to the next battery, which was almost à fleur d' eau. 9It was divided into two by a traverse containing a magazine, on one side of which were one 10-inch howitzer, two 32-pounders, and one 24-pounder; on the other side were the same number, with the addition of a single 24-pounder. 10These likewise were overturned, and the carriages and ammunition disposed of as before. 11The Japanese field battery up the valley, which had been advanced some little way from the stockade along a path leading towards Maeda mura, Dannoura and Shimonoséki annoyed us considerably during this operation, firing shells over us and at long ranges into the sea, while their musketeers kept up a pretty constant fire, though no one was touched on our side. 12Part of our men were told off to keep them in check, but our aim was not much better than that of the enemy. 13The great thing in war, until you come to close quarters, seems to be to make as much noise as you can to put your foes in a funk, or in other words to demoralize them. 14You can't do much harm, and it was laughable to see how many of our men ducked to avoid the shot, and I confess I followed their example until reason came to my aid.

15The "Medusa" moved up and threw a few shells in among them, while the "Perseus," "Amsterdam," and "Argus" fired over the hill from their station before Tanoura. 16This quieted the zeal of our warrior foes for a while, and we returned to the first battery we had dismantled, for the men to have their dinners. 17Crowdy of the Engineers, McBean the assistant-surgeon of the flagship and I divided a loaf of bread and a tin of sardines, which we opened with Crowdy's sword. 18There were no knives or forks handy, but that did not hinder us from satisfying our well-earned appetite as we 1111 sat on the steps of the magazine in the traverse. 2After dinner we helped the French to overturn the guns in their battery, which were four in number, very long 32-pounders, mounted on field carriages. 3The enemy still continued annoying us from their position up the valley, while some of our men kept up a fitful musketry fire in reply, without much damage on either side.

4The afternoon being already far advanced, the signal to re-embark was made from the "Euryalus," and the French and Dutch detachments, some of the marine detachment, and the "Conqueror's" small-arms men, were already in their boats, when about six o'clock we saw Colonel Suther's battalion of marines returning from the Maeda mura 15-gun battery through a heavy fire from the Japanese. 5The Japanese on perceiving them threw a round shot in among them, but without doing any harm; our men replied, and for fifteen minutes there was nothing but ping, ping, ping on both sides. 6At last the Colonel came up to Captain Alexander and said:—"Where are these men who are annoying us. 7I've enough men to take any battery. 8"All right," replied Alexander, "I'll take the left side of the valley and you the right. 9So the marines clambered up into the French battery (the eastern-most one) and proceeded up the covered way, while the "Conqueror's" men disembarked again, and the advance commenced. 10Beato and I stuck close to Alexander, and followed the bluejackets across the paddyfields by the narrow "bunds," and then along the path on the western side of the valley. 11How the bluejackets shouted and cheered, each man running on by himself, now stopping to take aim at an enemy from behind one of the pine trees that lined the edge of the road, and then on again. 12There was no order or discipline. 13Some of them wasted their ammunition on imaginary foes on the hillsides. 14I passed several wounded men as I went up, some seriously hurt, and the corpse of a sailor who had been killed by an arrow.

15At last we reached the battery, whence the gunners had been driven by our fire, dismounted the guns and threw them into the paddyfield close by, after destroying the carriages. 16Here Alexander was wounded by a ball which passed through the ankle-joint of his right foot, and he had to be carried to the rear on a stretcher. 17From this point the valley contracted rapidly, while immediately in front of us was a 1121 stockaded barrack into which most of the Japanese retreated, turning back repeatedly to fire. 2But I saw others in black armour and white surcoats retreating with great rapidity along the road to the left. 3Lieutenant Edwards and Crowdy of the Engineers were ahead with a middy named D. G. Boyes, who carried the colours most gallantly; he afterwards received the V.C. for conduct very plucky in one so young. 4When I got up to the front of the stockade there were three or four dead Japanese lying about and one of our men, shot through the heart. 5He presented a most ghastly sight as he lay there, getting visibly bluer and bluer, without any exterior signs of blood to show how he had come by his death. 6Having directed some of the men to put his corpse into a huge oblong basket which was on the ground close by and carry him off, I passed on into the stockade whence the Japanese had already fled. 7In retiring they had set fire to some houses close to the magazine, with the amiable intention of blowing us up, but the train was discovered and the explosion prevented.

8After ranging over the whole place and removing whatever was worth carrying off as trophies, such as armour, bows and arrows, spears and swords, and bayonets bearing a foreign maker's name, we set fire to the buildings and retired in good order. 9The loss of the enemy was about twenty killed, but they had carried off all their wounded. 10We had five killed and thirteen or fourteen wounded, two mortally. 11What the marine battalion was doing all this time I cannot say, for the excitement about what was going on ahead left me no disposition to look elsewhere, but I rather think that having marched along the covered way with great steadiness they managed to arrive just as the more active and impetuous "jacks" had finished the business. 12And no blame to them either for going about their work in a business-like manner. 13If we had met with a check in our heedless, headlong advance, the marines would have saved us from destruction. 14It was lucky for us that the skirmish terminated as it did, for our loss in small-arms' men would have been much greater if the Japanese had been strong enough to stand to their guns, or had posted marksmen on the hills to take us in flank as we hurried up the valley. 15They had the advantage in position, besides possessing seven small field pieces, while on the other hand we had at least a couple of hundred men in excess of their number, which it was supposed was 600. 16But I fancy I remember 1131 having heard since from a Chôshiû man who was present that their force was only one half of that. 2The bluejackets bore the brunt of the business, as they had to cross the line of fire and to advance along the outer edge of the horn-shaped valley, which curved away to the east out of sight of the shipping. 3The Japanese could not stand our advance, the sharp musketry fire threw them into disorder, and they had to run for it. 4In only one case was an attempt made to come to close quarters. 5One fellow had concealed himself behind a door with uplifted sword in both hands, ready to cut down a man just about to enter. 6But contrary to his expectation, his intended victim gave him a prod in the belly which laid him on his back and spoilt his little game. 7Our French companions in arms were disgusted at not having been present at the affair, and turned up their noses at it, as pas grand chose après tout. 8It was the fortune of war, and we commiserated them sincerely.

9The marines who in the first instance marched on Maeda mura had one man killed and two wounded. 10They dismantled fifteen guns in the battery there.

11During the day a boat belonging to one of the Dutch men-of-war, with two men in her, got loose and drifted down with the tide towards the town. 12They were immediately shot, though quite defenceless. 13Fred Lowder and his brother George, who had come up with him from Nagasaki "to see the fun," had a narrow escape as they were paddling about in a Japanese boat, which became unmanageable and was drifting off in the same direction; they jumped into the water and swam ashore, or they would probably have encountered the same fate.

14The eastern end of the town of Shimonoséki (more properly speaking, I believe, Akamagaséki) was set on fire, but the number of houses burnt was extremely small. 15It was alleged that this was done by the French because some Japanese soldiers had fired thence on their men, but I do not know whether this is a fact. 16The "Perseus" ran ashore opposite the nearest batteries, and as the tide ebbed her bow was high out of the water, nor did she get off again until the following day.

17I found myself on board again at half-past seven o'clock, very dirty, very tired, very hungry and very thirsty.

18On the 7th September working parties of bluejackets landed under the protection of some marines to take possession of 1141 the guns, ten of which they got into the boats. 2Others went up to the stockade and found some field pieces, which they destroyed, hove down wells, or brought away. 3We got together sixty, all but one of bronze, with two mortars and six cohorns. 4We blew up all the powder and threw the shot and shell into the sea. 5There was not a single hostile Japanese to be seen. 6The "Perseus" had to be lightened by discharging all her guns and coals, and so managed to get afloat by noon.

7Our list of casualties during the two days' operation was eight killed and thirty wounded, of whom one or two were not expected to live. 8We landed at half-past one on the Tanoura side to bury our dead, the French having already buried two in the forenoon. 9In digging the graves our men found particles of a glittering substance which was at first taken to be gold dust, but turned out to be mica. 10I met a party of Ogasawara's two-sworded men, who asked how many dead we had, and how we had fared on the previous day. 11On learning what a complete thrashing we had given the enemy at the stockade, they expressed great satisfaction, and recounted how the Chôshiû people had crossed over the straits in the previous year, cut down their crops, carried off their live stock, and driven the peasants away, after which they held possession of Tanoura for some time, until public opinion and the necessity of providing for the defence of Chôshiû's own territories had compelled them to withdraw. 12Ogasawara's men feared that when Chôshiû came to find out that communication had taken place between us and the Buzen folk, he would visit them again after the withdrawal of the squadron, but I boldly assured them that they need not alarm themselves, as we intended to destroy the batteries, and deprive Chôshiû of his territory. 13For I knew that part of the plan entertained by Sir Rutherford and his colleagues was the seizure of a sufficient piece of territory near Shimonoséki as a material guarantee for the payment of an adequate indemnity, and to hold it until it could be conveniently handed over to the Tycoon's government.

14Sir Rutherford contemplated nothing less than the complete subjugation of the Chôshiû clan, and he had enjoined upon the Admiral the necessity of attacking Hagi, which was supposed to be the stronghold of the daimiô. 15The Admiral, however, who was a prudent commander, and by no means disposed to take orders from the civil representatives of Her 1151 Majesty further than he was obliged, came to the conclusion that the resources at his disposal did not permit of a permanent occupation of any portion of Chôshiû's territory, and considered that as soon as the forts were destroyed and the straits opened, his task was accomplished. 2Fear had made the Ogasawara samurai wondrously polite. 3The villagers were also friendly enough, and I made them laugh good-humouredly with some commonplace jokes, but did not succeed in inducing them to sell any supplies. 4The officials, after hunting all through the village, as they assured us, produced eight or ten eggs, which they said was all they could find. 5Our bluejackets brought me some papers which they had picked up in the stockade, and which appeared to contain evidences of plots by Chôshiû against the Mikado, also quantities of pills made, or said to be made, from bear's gall, and banknotes for small sums, such as were commonly used in the territories of all the daimiôs. 6I believe that silver coin was current at that time in the dominions of the Tycoon alone.

7On the 8th, fatigue parties landed again to bring off more guns; we got all but two from the group of batteries, which made nineteen, besides fifteen from Maeda mura and an equal number from the batteries on Hikushima, the large island in the western entrance of the straits. 8I went on shore to Maeda mura, and found a well built battery, with a parapet twenty feet wide cased with stone towards the sea, and divided into four sections by traverses, between which the guns were planted in unequal numbers. 9In the rear stood a stone-built magazine, the roof of which had been smashed by a round shot that went right through it. 10The powder magazine, also of stone, which stood on one side of the valley behind, had been blown up the previous day. 11Further up was a stockaded barrack, which the French had burned. 12I went towards the advanced guard near the town, but as the enemy began to show themselves and fire at us, I made a prudent retreat.

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